If you must travel out of Lagos by road, you need special prayers.
It takes 2-3 hours to get to the toll gate from my place. It takes
about 4 hours to get to any part of the old west and it takes 3
hours to get from toll gate to your house in Lagos. In other
words, it takes almost as long to get to the toll gate as it does
to get to your destination from the toll gate! The toll gate to my
house is exactly 16 miles! It took an average of 1 hour to travel
a distance of 5 miles. This is because of self-inflicted
“go-slow”. The last car to get to an intersection wants to be the
first to get out of there and because of this mentality, no one
wants to yield! Most importantly, I dare say that 80 percent of
Lagos drivers did not do the road test before they started
driving! I know at least 10 drivers like that! They buy a car, do
a crash driving practice and start driving just like that! Then
they pay officials of the Motor Vehicle Department to get them a
driver’s license without ever going there! The consequence is
total chaos that we see on the roads.
Vacationing in Nigeria with pain by Tunde Adenodi.
Going home is always fun. There is
always an air of anticipation of what you are going to meet: Your
relatives, your friends, your neighbors. There is also always an
air of serious apprehension on what you will not want to meet:
Armed robbers, NEPA and serious traffic jams that discourage the
avid fun loving vacationer from having some fun out of your
immediate environment. Certainly, no one wants to have anything to
do with the police, customs immigration, the local government, the
state and Federal Governments. Not that you can do without them.
But the most minimal contact you have to have with those bodies,
the better for you.
To guarantee your independence
from these bodies, you must have done the following: For security
of your house, hire live-in guards, it might not be a bad idea if
you own a gun and are not afraid to use it; for water, equip your
house with a bore-hole; for electricity, install a powerful
generator and make friend with your local petrol station to
guarantee you an undisturbed supply of diesel oil; and if you must
go out on occasions, make friend with a young man who drives very
well and hire some marabouts to pray for your peaceful stay.
Vacationing in Nigeria should not be taken lightly.
“Daddy, when you get to your Geria,
will you send me to the boarding house?” My daughter asked me many
years ago when she was four. “Your Geria”! I said. “What do you
mean? It is also your own Geria”! Every time I mentioned
“Nigeria”, she thought I actually said “My Geria”! I had to
explain to her that the name of my country was N-i-g-e-r-i-a and
not Mygeria!
Thirty or so years later, I am
tempted to agree with this innocent child that she was right. It
was Mygeria and still is MyGeria. For my generation, it is Our
Geria. She has nothing to do with it and as things are, may never
have anything to do with it!
The flight to or from MyGeria, I
mean Nigeria, is always boring. The six hour wait in Europe is a
punishment. And the security in those airports make you feel
unwanted and undeserved of honor and dignity. Afterwards, you are
a Nigerian, deserving of such indignity as they may wish to bestow
on you. That you have dual citizenship makes matters worst for
you. They see you as one who might wish to take advantage of this
to engage in all kinds of illegal activities. And more often than
not, they are right!
If you are travelling light, some
Nigerians approach you and beg to add to your luggage from their
excess. “No”! I always say. “I do not know what you have in your
luggage and do not wish to take responsibility for something I
cannot vouch for”. Those who check us in are familiar with this
practice and insist that they pay. Most often, they pay but not
before humiliating themselves and all Nigerians in front of
everyone around. Why would anyone carry a 50 pound bag of Rice
from USA to Nigeria and expect to pay nothing in excess?
The behavior of Nigerians changes
on landing in Lagos Murtala Muhammed Airport. We become noisier
and more aggressive. We do not wish to stand quietly on line. Not
because we do not want to. But because Nigerian immigration and
customs encourage disorderliness by pulling out some people from
out of the line to attend to them, or the conveyor belt breaks
down every 5 minutes, or that the heat makes travelers so
uncomfortable that they might explode in anger for a small
infraction, or that custom officers demand for gifts as they
attend to you. And having travelled for 36 hours without a bath or
a shave, no one has the patience to stand in line for an official
whose primary goal is to find a way of frustrating you or milking
some unearned fee out of you. You are now in Nigeria. These add to
tension on arrival and paradoxically help you to adjust to the
fast pace of life and living in Nigeria’s megacity of Lagos.
Arriving in Lagos at night is
dangerous. And taking a cab at this time is ill-advised and
foolhardy. Even, walking to the car park at night with your
luggage is not a wise thing to do. You are accosted at the lot by
those whose faces you cannot see and insist that they deserve
gifts you should have brought for them! What about the ubiquitous
mallam who wishes to sell dollars or pounds sterling in the dark
at the dead of night at the poorly lit car park! It is better to
have your driver get the car and meet you in front of the building
in front of everyone around! I found out the hard way!
Going home from the airport
requires special prayers. You do not know who may have targeted
you at the airport. You do not know if someone is following you.
So, you order your driver to do the next logical thing: Drive as
if you are crazy! Drive as if you have a death wish. Drive so
fast that anyone who tries to overtake is destined to crash! It is
like a kamikaze drive! Not to forget the police in their black
uniforms at night. Or what you might think is the police. Look,
dear readers: you are now in Lagos, Your own Geria!
From a city block down to your
street, there is no sign of life. It is pitch-dark. NEPA had
struck. You do not want to announce your arrival to neighbors that
late at night and paradoxically, that early in your stay. You talk
in whispers so that they don’t hear your voice and go to bed in
the dark after a good shower. And most importantly, since you are
not sure no one followed you from the airport; you sleep with only
one eye closed! Now you know that your vacation has started!
At dead of night, NEPA comes to
life. You are forced to get up, pull the first latch, turn the
key, pull the second latch; turn the other key clock-wise, no,
anti-clock-wise, before you get to the next door going to the
kitchen. Repeat the same thing before you get to the one going to
the back-yard where, if you must use water, you have to switch on
the water pump before NEPA “with-holds” the “power”! And by the
time you do all these, NEPA is gone! If you try to go back to
sleep, NEPA may come back. But will they? The only thing that NEPA
does best is to switch off. You can bet your shirt they will. What
you cannot bet on is when they will be back. While contemplating
on this, a mosquito comes by to remind you of malaria. Then you
rush back in to wait for NEPA, which may or may not come. Now you
are sure you are home.
The last time I was in Lagos, I
had not more than 1 hour of electricity in my place in 9 days. If
this is not shameful to our leaders, what is? Why can we not make
NEPA work?
Since you did not have a good
night sleep, you may wish to stay in bed late. You go back to bed
by 4:30 am and start snoozing when the local mosque blasts its
call to prayer at 5.00 am. Then; followed by your local church
singing and dancing in prayer and supplication! Not to forget the
itinerant preacher, jingle bell in hand, who walks down your
neighborhood asking everyone to take heed “because the judgment of
God is at hand and the end of the world is close!” With such a
loud noise bellowing from these neighborhood mosques and churches,
you might feel that there are at least 10, 000 worshippers. No,
there are only a handful of people. Not more than twenty!
If you must travel out of Lagos by
road, you need special prayers. It takes 2-3 hours to get to the
toll gate from my place. It takes about 4 hours to get to any part
of the old west and it takes 3 hours to get from toll gate to your
house in Lagos. In other words, it takes almost as long to get to
the toll gate as it does to get to your destination from the toll
gate! The toll gate to my house is exactly 16 miles! It took an
average of 1 hour to travel a distance of 5 miles. This is because
of self-inflicted “go-slow”. The last car to get to an
intersection wants to be the first to get out of there and because
of this mentality, no one wants to yield! Most importantly, I dare
say that 80 percent of Lagos drivers did not do the road test
before they started driving! I know at least 10 drivers like that!
They buy a car, do a crash driving practice and start driving just
like that! Then they pay officials of the Motor Vehicle Department
to get them a driver’s license without ever going there! The
consequence is total chaos that we see on the roads.
If you have been out of the
country for a long time and you are rather elderly, you wish to go
back to where you came from after staying for a few days. You long
for uninterrupted power, water, free flow of traffic and all
things that make life bearable in those foreign lands. You want to
sleep and sleep well! Yes, you love your country, but you tend to
love your peace of mind even more.
In spite of
all this, I would not spend my vacation anywhere else but “My
Geria” and I dare say your Geria too! May God Almighty save us
from ourselves!